You can find them on menus around central Ohio any time of the year, but there's something about this time of year — hmm, what could it be? — that gets people in the mood for traditional Irish food.

From about the year 1200 to 1855, the neighborhood of Donnybrook, Dublin, held an annual fair that was so rowdy and beer-soaked that the word “donnybrook” has come to mean a public quarrel. A new ...